Sunday, March 2, 2008
The chef shuffling continues . . .
The Stew reports that Coco Pazzo (300 W. Hubbard St., 312-836-0900) exec chef Tony Priolo is leaving at the end of the month to do his own thing in the old Timo space in River West.
So . . . was it a hit or miss?!
The first-ever Chicago Restaurant Week just ended on Friday, and reviews are coming in. Some of the highlights:
Aigre Doux (230 W. Kinzie St., 312-329-9400): " I was a happy man after my first spoonful of silky-smooth butternut squash veloute, inlaid with long strips of black trumpet mushroom. The other choice was a pair of crispy risotto balls (left), sitting on two paper-thin strips of prosciutto di parma. The dab of aioli in the corner I left alone; it wasn’t needed. Salmon For the main course, there was slow-baked salmon(left), medium rare (the server asked), over a puree of curried parsnips; and a terrific steak frites with hangar steak (below), wonderful thin fries, and, under the steak, a bit of creamed spinach that was so good I wanted more. I don’t think there’s a better creamed spinach in any steakhouse in the city. Dessert is a “banana toffee coupe,” a pilsner glass layered with caramelized bananas, bitter-caramel ice cream and homemade toffee. Yum."—The Stew
Aria (200 N. Columbus Dr., 312-444-9494): "The naan was fantastic. Everything else (well, except dessert) was just too darn salty! Everything! We split the risotto milanese, with veal shank, saffron, lemon gremolata, then each had the restaurant week menu. The risotto was the first example of the kitchen being way too heavy-handed with the salt, to the point where everything else was just overwhelmed."—LTHForum.com
Naha (500 N. Clark St., 312-321-6242): "Two of us had the squash soup with hickory nuts and maple syrup. Nice combination of textures with the creamy soup and some crunch from the nuts, vaguely sweet but with some woodsiness as well. Third member of our party had cured trout w/ door county caviar and "mosaic of nicoise garnishes." I was hoping for a taste but didn't get one. The plate was truly wiped clean, but I have no other info about it. . . . Desserts were a pineapple tart with almond and coconut, and a dark chocolate cake with black forest ice cream and pinot noir. The dark chocolate cake was very nice but not transcendent, though the pinor noir and the black forest ice cream were brilliant. The pineapple tart was more strongly coconut than pineapple, and was very much enjoyed."—LTHForum.com
one sixtyblue (1400 W. Randolph St., 312-850-0303): "The potato-leek soup was calling to me, for instance, but I started instead with parmesan gnocchi, tossed with tiny cubes of butternut squash, marcona almonds and crumbled amaretto cookies. The flavors echoed those of a traditional Mantua dish (except that in Italy, it would be ravioli). Delicious. My main course consisted of kurobuta pork tenderloin, caramelized red cabbage and apple salad, arranged into three small stacks and surrounding a rectangle of crispy pork belly. The pork was as tender as any filet mignon, and the fatty pork belly added an element of pure decadence. A juniper-scented berry sauce tied the dish together."—The Stew
Aigre Doux (230 W. Kinzie St., 312-329-9400): " I was a happy man after my first spoonful of silky-smooth butternut squash veloute, inlaid with long strips of black trumpet mushroom. The other choice was a pair of crispy risotto balls (left), sitting on two paper-thin strips of prosciutto di parma. The dab of aioli in the corner I left alone; it wasn’t needed. Salmon For the main course, there was slow-baked salmon(left), medium rare (the server asked), over a puree of curried parsnips; and a terrific steak frites with hangar steak (below), wonderful thin fries, and, under the steak, a bit of creamed spinach that was so good I wanted more. I don’t think there’s a better creamed spinach in any steakhouse in the city. Dessert is a “banana toffee coupe,” a pilsner glass layered with caramelized bananas, bitter-caramel ice cream and homemade toffee. Yum."—The Stew
Aria (200 N. Columbus Dr., 312-444-9494): "The naan was fantastic. Everything else (well, except dessert) was just too darn salty! Everything! We split the risotto milanese, with veal shank, saffron, lemon gremolata, then each had the restaurant week menu. The risotto was the first example of the kitchen being way too heavy-handed with the salt, to the point where everything else was just overwhelmed."—LTHForum.com
Naha (500 N. Clark St., 312-321-6242): "Two of us had the squash soup with hickory nuts and maple syrup. Nice combination of textures with the creamy soup and some crunch from the nuts, vaguely sweet but with some woodsiness as well. Third member of our party had cured trout w/ door county caviar and "mosaic of nicoise garnishes." I was hoping for a taste but didn't get one. The plate was truly wiped clean, but I have no other info about it. . . . Desserts were a pineapple tart with almond and coconut, and a dark chocolate cake with black forest ice cream and pinot noir. The dark chocolate cake was very nice but not transcendent, though the pinor noir and the black forest ice cream were brilliant. The pineapple tart was more strongly coconut than pineapple, and was very much enjoyed."—LTHForum.com
one sixtyblue (1400 W. Randolph St., 312-850-0303): "The potato-leek soup was calling to me, for instance, but I started instead with parmesan gnocchi, tossed with tiny cubes of butternut squash, marcona almonds and crumbled amaretto cookies. The flavors echoed those of a traditional Mantua dish (except that in Italy, it would be ravioli). Delicious. My main course consisted of kurobuta pork tenderloin, caramelized red cabbage and apple salad, arranged into three small stacks and surrounding a rectangle of crispy pork belly. The pork was as tender as any filet mignon, and the fatty pork belly added an element of pure decadence. A juniper-scented berry sauce tied the dish together."—The Stew
Boundary issues?
What's gonna happen when The Fifty/50 (2047 W. Division St.) opens on March 18 a block away from last year's Wicker Park sensation The Boundary (1932 W. Division St., 773-278-1919)?
It should be an interesting sight to watch as the two sports-oriented spots fight for West Town sports fans during March Madness—the busiest time of the year for NCAA Men's Basketball season.
It should be an interesting sight to watch as the two sports-oriented spots fight for West Town sports fans during March Madness—the busiest time of the year for NCAA Men's Basketball season.
Friday, February 29, 2008
What the critics are saying . . .
. . . about:
Hop Haus (646 N. Franklin St., 312-467-4287). "The burger menu—dreamed up by a couple folks from Alinea—includes 'global' takes on the basic steak burger and exotica like kangaroo and ostrich. The German burger was pretty good, topped with rich butterkase, sauerkraut, and robust brown mustard. But the wild boar was a disappointment, the meat tough, greasy, and well past medium rare. Both come on weirdly puffy egg buns that can’t bear the weight of their contents and are accompanied by seasoned potato wedges."—Martha Bayne (Chicago Reader)
Takashi (1952 N. Damen Ave., 773-772-6170). "The large-plate highlight is the chicken in clay pot, an aromatic blend of chicken and vegetables presented with haricots verts and eggplant. The chicken is subtly but expertly seasoned, and when the pot's lid is removed, that first blast of citrus-laced steam rushing toward you is as effective a stimulus as Pavlov's bell."—Phil Vettel (Chicago Tribune) Read it all here.
Tallulah (4539 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-942-7585). "The food echoes the concept: Fancy-casual dishes like deviled eggs stuffed with Maine lobster, or the simple filet of salmon served with luxurious black truffle gnocchi, are built around the idea that you can get the best of both worlds on only one plate."—David Tamarkin (Time Out Chicago) Read it all here.
Wilde Bar & Restaurant (3130 N. Broadway, 773-244-0404). "Expensively inlaid floors feature buffed wood and mosaic tiles—a perfect backdrop for acres of turned banisters, crown molding, crackling fireplaces and cushy seating. Raised, upholstered booths line the front, while highboys and four tops dot the remaining space. Weathered volumes and burgundy club areas comprise the library. Young couples and groups gather around frothy pints and fancy bar food."—Fred Schlatter (Chicago Citysearch) Read it all here.
Hop Haus (646 N. Franklin St., 312-467-4287). "The burger menu—dreamed up by a couple folks from Alinea—includes 'global' takes on the basic steak burger and exotica like kangaroo and ostrich. The German burger was pretty good, topped with rich butterkase, sauerkraut, and robust brown mustard. But the wild boar was a disappointment, the meat tough, greasy, and well past medium rare. Both come on weirdly puffy egg buns that can’t bear the weight of their contents and are accompanied by seasoned potato wedges."—Martha Bayne (Chicago Reader)
Takashi (1952 N. Damen Ave., 773-772-6170). "The large-plate highlight is the chicken in clay pot, an aromatic blend of chicken and vegetables presented with haricots verts and eggplant. The chicken is subtly but expertly seasoned, and when the pot's lid is removed, that first blast of citrus-laced steam rushing toward you is as effective a stimulus as Pavlov's bell."—Phil Vettel (Chicago Tribune) Read it all here.
Tallulah (4539 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-942-7585). "The food echoes the concept: Fancy-casual dishes like deviled eggs stuffed with Maine lobster, or the simple filet of salmon served with luxurious black truffle gnocchi, are built around the idea that you can get the best of both worlds on only one plate."—David Tamarkin (Time Out Chicago) Read it all here.
Wilde Bar & Restaurant (3130 N. Broadway, 773-244-0404). "Expensively inlaid floors feature buffed wood and mosaic tiles—a perfect backdrop for acres of turned banisters, crown molding, crackling fireplaces and cushy seating. Raised, upholstered booths line the front, while highboys and four tops dot the remaining space. Weathered volumes and burgundy club areas comprise the library. Young couples and groups gather around frothy pints and fancy bar food."—Fred Schlatter (Chicago Citysearch) Read it all here.
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Coming at cha . . .
Joynt Piano Bar & Retro Club (650 N. Dearborn St., 312-573-2233) opens in mid-March in River North to give Martini Park (151 W. Erie St., 312-640-0577) a run for its money.
And Perennial (1800 N. Lincoln Ave.), the American bistro by Rob Katz and Kevin Boehm that had expected to open sometime in March, is running behind schedule. They're now telling us to look forward to their debut in early to mid April.
And Perennial (1800 N. Lincoln Ave.), the American bistro by Rob Katz and Kevin Boehm that had expected to open sometime in March, is running behind schedule. They're now telling us to look forward to their debut in early to mid April.
Boom Boom Room returns?!
Sorta. But Music 101—which had been hosting the legendary Monday night party for several years at Green Dolphin Street (2200 N. Ashland Ave., 773-395-0066)—is now calling it Beats, Bass & Rhythm.
They've teamed up with Chicago Pride and Crunch Fitness to hold it at Vision (640 N. Dearborn St., 312-266-1944), and the launch event happens on March 3 with deep house masters Tony Humphries and Roy Davis Jr. bringing on the beats.
Also, $5 Stoli drinks, $3 domestic beers, and complimentary shuttle service between Minibar (3341 N. Halsted St.) and Vision starting at 10pm. 10pm-4am Mondays. RSVP for comp admission before midnight.
They've teamed up with Chicago Pride and Crunch Fitness to hold it at Vision (640 N. Dearborn St., 312-266-1944), and the launch event happens on March 3 with deep house masters Tony Humphries and Roy Davis Jr. bringing on the beats.
Also, $5 Stoli drinks, $3 domestic beers, and complimentary shuttle service between Minibar (3341 N. Halsted St.) and Vision starting at 10pm. 10pm-4am Mondays. RSVP for comp admission before midnight.
A little lovin' straight from the oven
Over on the L.2O blog, Chef de Cuisine Francis Brennan gushes over the arrival of The Pavailler, a "three deck, steam injected oven built for the purpose of baking crusty loaves of bread."
The modern, high-end seafood eatery L.2O is still on schedule to open this spring at 2300 N. Lincoln Park West.
The modern, high-end seafood eatery L.2O is still on schedule to open this spring at 2300 N. Lincoln Park West.
Party with Snoop?!
I don't know why he's in town today, but I just got a message in my inbox that hip-hop star Snoop Dogg is supposed to make an appearance at Transit (1431 W. Lake St., 312-491-8600) tonight.
Hosted by urban party group Good Life Chicago, the weekly Thursday night affair will definitely have members of the Chicago Bulls and Washington Wizards in attendance—if you're into that sort of thing. Deejays Seanmac, Mustafa Rocks and phatmike spin hip-hop and urban hits; the cover is $10 before 11:30pm.
If Snoop does actually show up, expect this party to be off the shizzle fo sho.
UPDATE: Ha! He's here to perform two shows at the House of Blues (329 N. Dearborn St., 312-923-2000).
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