Monday, April 6, 2009
Drive-Thru checks out Branch 27
Roasted chicken and mussels dishes at Branch 27. (Photo: Peter Riskind)
Gapers Block reviews new West Town hot spot Branch 27:
"Exposed brick, muted olive and moss tones, and an over-arching skylight set the scene for a simple and well-executed menu with only a few demure points of whimsy (I'm not sure exactly what a mozzarella egg roll is...and our waitress steered us towards the more conventional but very well-flavored and crunchy chicken wings with a sauce that smelled like heat but tasted like sweetness with just a hint of chili).
"The restaurant describes its menu as 'familiar,' which seems to mean not just familiar home-cooking, like pan-fried perch or a highly recommended roasted half-chicken, but some familiar stars of contemporary American menus, like tuna tartar, scallops with pumpkin ravioli, and mussels and fries."