Monday, April 6, 2009

Drive-Thru checks out Branch 27

Roasted chicken and mussels dishes at Branch 27. (Photo: Peter Riskind)

Gapers Block reviews new West Town hot spot Branch 27:

"Exposed brick, muted olive and moss tones, and an over-arching skylight set the scene for a simple and well-executed menu with only a few demure points of whimsy (I'm not sure exactly what a mozzarella egg roll is...and our waitress steered us towards the more conventional but very well-flavored and crunchy chicken wings with a sauce that smelled like heat but tasted like sweetness with just a hint of chili).

"The restaurant describes its menu as 'familiar,' which seems to mean not just familiar home-cooking, like pan-fried perch or a highly recommended roasted half-chicken, but some familiar stars of contemporary American menus, like tuna tartar, scallops with pumpkin ravioli, and mussels and fries."

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